Celebrating My 12th Veganniversary with Bagels

Twelve years ago, I made the decision to go from vegetarian to vegan and I’m so glad I did. And what better way to celebrate a dozen years than to make a dozen bagels! I first tried a bagel shortly after my 13th birthday in Miami, Florida on my way to Costa Rica, my very first journey outside the United States. I had to stay overnight in a hotel (it was coincidently also the day of the Challenger explosion and I was trying to make sense of it all when I saw what had happened on the television in my hotel). I don’t remember who picked me up and took care of me overnight, but I would imagine it was someone on the Quaker trip that would take me to Costa Rica. My grandmother had invited me and I must say that that trip changed my life forever, arming me with the desire to see as much of the world as I could. The woman who stayed with me at the hotel had purchased onion bagels and I loved them! I’ve been enjoying bagels around the world ever since. I was excited to make them from scratch in my kitchen with my fiancee.

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How To Enjoy Tokyo’s Ginza District Without Shopping

Anyone who knows me even a little knows that I despise shopping. I get absolutely zero enjoyment out of walking around a store and feigning interest in a bunch of overpriced crap. As a firm believer of “if I’ve survived this long without it, I’m sure I don’t need it”, I can think of a million activities I would rather do than be in the market for anything. So, this begs the question, why on earth would someone who abhors shopping so much book a hotel for five nights in Tokyo’s most notorious high end shopping district with stores like Gucci, Louis Vuitton and some other brand I could care less about?

The answer is simple: for the food, specifically the vegan restaurants. I love staying in a location where I can walk to a variety of vegan eateries. Ginza offers a restaurant specializing in vegan junk food in a shopping mall, a vegan kissa (Japanese coffee shop – short for kissaten), as well as a prix-fixed fine-dining gastronomical experience in a high end vegan restaurant and everything in between. And I wanted to try it all! Plus, I discovered some non-shopping related spots to visit and interesting experiences to have in this extremely beautiful part of town, without having to drop a boatload of money on some high-end nonsense.

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Experiencing a Full Solar Eclipse in Mazatlan, Mexico

After three flights zigzagging our way across North America, we smoothly passed through Mexican immigration, waltzed by the baggage claim without retrieving any luggage and promptly stood in the taxi line just to the right of the arrival hall in the small Mazatlan airport. With about ten people in front of us and an ever-growing line behind us, it became clear that the Mazatlan airport, especially compared to the the Mexico City and Atlanta airports we had spent time in earlier that day, was not used to processing so many passengers. This resort town in the Mexican state of Sinaloa sees an increase in visitors every year for Semana Santa (Easter Week), but nothing could have prepared them for the flock of thrill seekers, astronomy enthusiasts and umbraphiles that ascended on this beautiful vacation spot along the Pacific shoreline.

This was to be the first time I would experience a full eclipse, having only witnessed a couple partial ones, from the side of the road in rural Michigan and from my own backyard in Florida. Sponging up the anticipation and excitement in the air, I could not possibly grasp at the time, the epic life-changing event that I was about to take part in. But, that was still a few days away.

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Vegan Beautyberry Recipes

“That’s a native plant to Florida”, Chuck the arborist told me pointing to the scraggly bush in my new backyard I had almost pulled up a few days prior. He continued, “they will produce a bright purple berry”. After hearing “native” and “purple”, I was sold! So, I trimmed it back the way he had advised and waited for the unseemly bunch of sticks poking out of the ground to turn into a vibrant green bush with ripe purple berries. I learned that these are called beautyberries and it’s easy to see how they got their name. Turns out they are edible too!

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Celebrating My 11th Veganniversary with Tacos

Just over 11 years ago, only a few months after moving to Chiang Mai, Thailand, I made the switch from lifelong vegetarian to vegan. A lot has occurred in my life in the past 11 years: a move to Florida, surviving the pandemic and a divorce, turning 50 and visiting over 20 new countries. Perhaps my dedication to veganism is one of the few things that hasn’t changed in my life and I wanted to celebrate!

The Significance of 11

I always make a wish when the time turns 11:11 and I wondered if there were any additional significance of the number 11. Online sources revealed that “the number 11 symbolizes the principles of spiritual enlightenment and awakening and is a reminder from the universe that we came to this physical world from the spiritual realm and we all have a very special purpose in life”. It can also signify balance in the world as well as balance between our emotions and thoughts and fulfillment in life and vision. It is considered by some to be a lucky number and by others to be a sign of a new beginning of something full of positive changes. Some believe it is a reminder to find your true calling, the importance of letting go of negative connections. Others believe 11 is representative of a balance of feminine and masculine energies and can be interpreted as the peacemaker.

Perhaps due to my Quaker upbringing, I was mostly drawn to what I found online regarding the spiritual meaning of number 11, that represents the light within everyone that is only strengthened by the love of peace, gentleness, sensitivity and insight. Eleven is spiritually indicative of a reflective, thoughtful and intuitive soul, deeply involved in the progression of life with an awareness of universal relationship.

According to the list of traditional anniversary gifts by year, the 11 year anniversary gift is steel. This hard, tough metal is known for its durability and strength and, in my opinion, is the perfect metaphor for any commitment spanning over a decade. I decided to mark the occasion by gifting myself iridescent stainless steel taco holders to go with the 11 taco toppings I intended to make.

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Vegan “Find-Dining” in Asheville, North Carolina

As a part of my two-week road trip around the southeastern United States, I arrived to Asheville one June night having driven just over an hour from Newland, a small village in the mountains of North Carolina that was perfect for my friend’s wedding. Along the way, I stopped to visit my friend Nic near Little Switzerland, the perfect name for this rural mountain town with gorgeous views. To get to her lofty cabin in the woods, Grane (pronounced “Gra-neh”) and I had to ford three streams on a private road. A couple years prior, I had given my Subaru Forrester this name while recovering from my divorce. The name of Brünnhilde’s horse, Grane, seemed perfect for a vehicle that would help me navigate my way through troublesome circumstances. This was not lost on me, when I came to a locked gate after making it across yet another rather swiftly moving stream. I called my friend and was told that I had come “the difficult way”. Concerned Grane might not make it through the fourth, and deepest stream, I turned around and followed Nic back to the main road to pursue “the easy way”.

Nic took me to a gorgeous local waterfall in Little Switzerland, North Carolina.

This adventure off the beaten path nourished my soul in a way that only deep woods can. I loved what seemed like a million shades of green, the sounds of running water, rustling leaves and bird singing and the smell of fresh and clean air. Having already booked my Asheville accommodations, as well as a three-hour foraging tour, I became excited about experiencing the woods in a different, more intimate way.

I enjoyed my day with Nic, sipping tea and watching hummingbirds on her deck with an amazing view of the surrounding mountains. We also shared poetry we had written during rough times in our lives and ate delicious wood-fired pizza with housemade vegan cheese from Hog Hollow in nearby Burnsville before I continued on my way to Asheville and checked into my AirBnb. I was excited for the next day.

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Feeling Blessed in Haridwar, India

“Thank you”, I told the taxi driver, “have a safe drive back to Delhi”. It felt good to step out of the car after the four hour ride. I put on my small backpack and took in my surroundings as I navigated the remaining 650 meters to the guesthouse on foot through increasingly narrow alleyways. I passed vendor stalls selling very different wares to those I had seen in Old Delhi. Haridwar shops sold targeted items such as marigold flowers, diyas (lamps), sindor (a brilliant scarlet powder used during Hindu religious and cultural ceremonies), deity statues and bright orange plastic containers that I later learned were for collecting Ganges water. Theism and piousness filled the air.

Pre-made ceremony offerings for sale in Haridwar, India

Despite the fact that I was eager to lay down my backpack at the guesthouse, a glimpse of water between two buildings to my right caught my eye and I had to go investigate. I followed the narrow dark passage towards the light and suddenly I found myself standing on the shore of the Ganges. THE Ganges! I felt a strong feminine energy from the cool breeze as the sheer power of the mighty waters rushed by. The gravity of this moment was not lost on me. Haridwar is where the glacier-fed Ganges River exits the Himalayan foothills and touches the plains. Hindus travel from all over India to this sacred city to embark on a puja (Hindu pilgrimage). Some bring ashes of a deceased family member to gain salvation and take part in a ritual bath to cleanse sins. Being 500 miles upstream of Varanasi, perhaps the most famous location in all of India for taking a holy bath, I wondered if I might, at some point during my five-day stay in Haridwar, be persuaded to dip my feet into the Ganges and feel the sacred waters rush over them. I was happy that I had added Haridwar to my Indian itinerary.

Sindor for sale in Haridwar, India
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A Week in Oaxaca, Mexico

Famous for its Day of the Dead traditions, Oaxaca had been on my Mexico bucket list for quite some time. Little did I know, but when I researched the area, I also discovered that Oaxaca is a mecca for cultural experiences, fascinating history and amazing natural wonders. During my visit, I managed to try vegan Zapotec cuisine, learn about a civilization dating back to the 6th century and visit the widest tree in the world. What a week!

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A Week in Torrington, Connecticut

The town of Torrington doesn’t exactly make most people’s travel bucket lists and frankly it didn’t make mine either. So how did I end up in this quiet Connecticut town? Wanting to spend time with my good friend Beth, I came for a visit. As it turned out, Torrington is home to some historically significant markers, a vibrant art scene and gorgeous natural spaces.

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Vegan Fine-Dining Around the World

I have enjoyed all kinds of vegan food from around the world, from street food in Thailand to food trucks in Florida to cafes in Poland. I’ve enjoyed curries from India, Thailand and Malaysia, eaten loaded baked potatoes in Istanbul, chips in Dublin, poutine in Canada and Christmas fries in New Mexico. I love the bagels in New York, the big soft pretzels in Berlin, dosa in Kuala Lumpur, naan in Kathmandu, Indian fry bread in Taos, corn tortillas in the Yucatán, pitas in Bethlehem and baguettes in Brugge.

I’ve enjoyed ayvar of Croatia and pickled everything in Spreewald. I tried spinach coxinhas in Rio de Janeiro and spinach burek in Ljubljana. I’ve had koshari in Cairo, falafel in Tel Aviv, tacos in Merida, gazpacho in Spain, pad Thai in Bangkok and lumpia in Manila. I found vegan haggis samosas in Edinburgh (what a rare find), dumplings in Beijing, pierogies in Warsaw, momos in Lhasa and pupusas in Guatemala.

It was only recently, however, that I started to be interested in vegan fine-dining. I have become interested to see what top-notch chefs can do with the vast array of plant-based ingredients around the world.

My parents introduced me at a very young age to fine art. My favorites usually involved vivid colors, such as the Impressionist masters of Renoir and Monet. And as long as I can remember, I’ve also been fascinated by language and how it pertains to culture. I came to learn that each language presents a unique perspective of world. I believe it was perhaps these areas of interest that eventually lured me into fine-dining, an international-inspired gastronomical experience, an art form in its own right.

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Otherworldly Bachelorette Day Trip to Cassadaga, Florida

“No candles, no incense and if you damage anything, you’ll have to pay $150”, the woman told me matter-of-factly from her seated position on the other side of the counter. My skin was still wet from the pouring rain outside. I took in my prevue and noticed I was surrounded by a large variety of gemstones in small plastic bags, bottles of various oils and decks of Tarot cards.  

The woman handed me my room key bearing the number 28. I thanked her and pushed my wheeled suitcase back through the entryway lined with quartz crystals. Climbing the dark wooden stairs, I passed a sign stating that paranormal investigation and/or filming was not allowed on the property without written consent from the owner of the hotel. Within only a few minutes of arriving to this tiny town, I realized Cassadaga is a different sort of place. And little did I know when I pulled into a parking space in front of Hotel Cassadaga during a thunder storm, what was in store for the next day and a half.

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A Few Days in Old Delhi

I nearly step in poop of a source unknown, but I notice it just in time. A loud motorbike horn suddenly, and without warning, blares in my right ear causing me to jump. I raise my gaze to see a beautiful doorway. I pass a group of men squatting and eating rice dishes with their hands. A man leads a cow and calf past me going the opposite direction. I smell fragrant spices and I try not to fixate on the squishy sensation caught in my left sandal. A child wearing a gray school uniform stares at me from the back of a rickshaw. An old woman in dirty drab clothing extends her hand for money. I pass dress shops, vegetable stands and a man filing a key by hand. A young woman with a beautifully ornate Indian sari passes in a rickshaw.

Another loud horn reverberates through my body, I step around a small pile of garbage and I pass a man perfuming his storefront with incense. Two men are fighting about where to park a motorbike and it’s hard to ignore the child standing in front of me with her hand out hoping for money. I look up and wave to the woman with her head out the third or fourth story window watching the crowd from above. I pass a man getting a shave with a straight razor right next to a swarm of shoppers, and motorbikes and people pulling carts and dogs and the occasional cow, cat or monkey. None of this seems to phase anyone. And then it starts to rain. “So this is India”, I think.

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Day Trip to Washington, DC

I grew up in Baltimore, an hour north of the nation’s capital. Spending the day in Washington, D.C. was never a very big deal. In fact, many of our school field trips were spent in the Air and Space Museum, driving by the Jefferson Memorial and walking up the steps to the massive statue of Lincoln sitting on his chair. it wasn’t until later that I realized these were the very same steps where Martin Luther King, Jr. gave his famous “I have a dream” speech.

One of my earliest memories of Washington, D.C. was my mother taking me to the Library of Congress. Since then, I frequented the city for various purposes. I have sung several times in the National Gallery of Art, cried in the Holocaust Museum and played Balinese gamelan in the Cherry Blossom Parade. Over the years, I have joined demonstrations and protests of all sorts, including flying down from Connecticut for the Equality March in 2000 and, most recently, flying up from Florida for the first Women’s March in 2016.

Since moving away from the area, my relationship with the capital has changed a bit. It’s no longer “just down the street”and I discovered that there is actually quite a lot about Washington, DC that I have yet to discover. I flew into DCA and decided to spend an afternoon and evening there before driving out to California, Maryland to celebrate my friend’s 50th birthday.

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Turning 50 on the Top of the World

I knew I wanted to celebrate my 50th birthday in a big way. I had turned 20 in Baltimore, 30 in Berlin, Germany and 40 in Chiang Mai, Thailand. I wanted to leave my 40s behind in a really cool place. Originally planning to travel to Antarctica to mark the occasion, I wanted to experience something completely new for me, an extreme of some sort. The Covid pandemic interfered in making arrangements to travel to the Great White South, so I decided to check out the northern polar region instead. I liked the possibility of seeing the Aurora Borealis, experiencing 24 hour darkness, visiting the Global Seed Vault and learning more about polar bears. A plan began to form.

Svalbard liquor store with a play on words in Norwegian. It means both “North Pole” and “Monopoly” – seems kind of appropriate given the remote location.
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Saying Goodbye to My 40s

My 40s began in Chiang Mai, Thailand. I was an ajarn (professor) in the Humanities Department at Chiang Mai University, I had gone from vegetarian to vegan only months before and I had just survived dengue fever after getting bitten by an infected mosquito on a solo weekend trip to Ayutthaya. I was in the middle of an active and adventurous life. Little did I know then all the triumphs I would celebrate, as well as all the challenges I was to overcome in the subsequent ten years. As I say goodbye to my 40s, I reflect on the victories and hurdles of the past decade.

Proud lesbian at the first Women’s March in Washington, DC
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Vegan in Longyearbyen

I stepped off the plane in complete darkness and walked across the tarmac to enter the small Longyearbyen Airport. I was excited to be so far north, the furthest north I’d ever traveled. Once inside and only steps from the door I had just passed, I encountered my first real polar bear…stuffed and decorating the baggage claim area. Someone had even placed a Santa hat on the bear’s head. My heart fell. I was saddened and wondered what a vegan like me might be in for in the northernmost settlement with a population of over 1000.

The view from the Funken Lodge in Longyearbyen
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A Weekend With the Campazons

I slammed the trunk to Chrissy’s truck and slipped into the passenger seat. I was nervous and excited. This would be the very first time I would go camping with the Campazons. Although I had been a member of the Facebook Campazons group for a couple of years, something seemed to always get in the way (Covid, travel, depression) of actually making it out to one of the weekend camping trips. But this time, my basic need to connect with women overpowered my depression and anxiety, and before I knew it, we were struck in traffic on a Friday afternoon heading towards Dade City, Florida! As I watched the world go by, I found myself wondering what the weekend would be like. Little did I know then that I was in for an amazing weekend connected to women, to nature and even the cosmos.

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Day Trip to Strömstad, Sweden

I pushed the tab just behind the steering column away from me and I moved my foot from the brake to the accelerator. My friend’s electric car seemed like the perfect way to cross the Norwegian border into Sweden. While I always revel in visiting new countries, Sweden was particularly special to me for two reasons: 1) my father has always raved about this Scandinavian country nestled between Norway and Finland and 2) Sweden was to be the 60th country I’ve visited.

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Hoity Toity Weekend in Manhattan

My friend Karin and I decided to enjoy a girls’ weekend in New York City. Both fans of opera, and Karin being a trained ballerina, our three-day adventure centered around Lincoln Center. I was very enthusiastic to see how the itinerary I had planned would unfold, from the classical performances to the restaurants I had chosen at which to dine. Karin expressed her exuberance as well!

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Veganized Cheeses From Around the World

Traveling had become more challenging during the Covid pandemic and I found myself with a lot more extra time at home. So, I decided to attempt making vegan cheeses from places I’ve traveled around the world. In every case below, I traveled to the featured locations before becoming vegan. So, I am very excited to revisit some of my favorite memories, but veganized!

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Unique Things To Do in Sante Fe, New Mexico

Santa Fe, New Mexico attracts people with varied interests and seems to fulfill everyone’s needs and desires. There are amazing places to hike, including the southernmost peak of the Rocky Mountains (Shaggy Peak). Visual art enthusiasts are in heaven in Sante Fe with so many art exhibits, including of course the famous Georgia O’Keeffe. Many folks flock to this small desert town for the large array of music performances from opera to jazz to flamenco and more. Some come to learn about and celebrate the tribal cultures and others come for the unique northern New Mexican cuisine.

All of the above brought me to Sante Fe. A few years ago I drove through this small town on my way to Taos, only stopping at the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum and having lunch at Annapurna’s World Vegetarian Cafe. I quickly realized that a few hours in Santa Fe simply was not enough time, so I vowed to return. I booked an entire week at an AirBnb in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, about 20 minutes southeast of downtown. This time around I aimed to try activities that might be considered off the beaten path.

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Smash Room in Clearwater, Florida

From behind my protective headgear, I surveyed the cement room. A small wooden table with a glass top waited for me next to a white nightstand in the middle of the room. I faced a colorfully-splattered cement wall. A blue plastic barrel stood in one corner and a large black piece of furniture with drawers had been placed in the other. A black plastic tub filled with glasses, dishes and porcelain sat on the floor in front of the wall behind me. The wall adjacent the blue barrel was lined with golf clubs, baseball bats and sledgehammers. I picked up a heavy yellow sledgehammer, took a deep breath and waited for my playlist to start.

Inside the Smash Box 20 in Clearwater, Florida
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Vegan in the Amazon

As I twirled, the breeze of my bright blue billowing skirt cut the humidity in the night air. I closely followed the teacher, trying to mimic her from across the circle, and feel the Carimbó music blasting across the flooded Rio Negro from the big speakers in the corner. Sweat dripped down my face, but the anticipation of the next dance move kept me going. The spectators were smiling (or was it laughing) and it dawned on me that I was learning to dance by and with Indigenous women in the Amazon. This was exactly the kind of authentic activity I was hoping to experience!

Dancing the Carimbó with my Brazilian friend Paula in the Amazon jungle
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A Day in the Berkshires

I lay back on my colorful blanket with my head on my little backpack full of half-eaten vegan goodies. I looked up at the stars and let Mahler wash over me. The air smelled of fresh grass and images of the sunset still danced in my mind. I had finally made it to Tanglewood!

I wonder how many amazing performances this tree has experienced. (Tanglewood, Lenox, Massachusetts)
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A Few Days in Rio de Janeiro

My hammock swayed a little in the ocean breeze way up on the 11th floor balcony of my spacious Airbnb apartment. I hummed along with “The Girl from Ipanema” which played on my phone and I took another sip of coconut juice from the fresh coconut I had just purchased at Zona Sul Grocery Store. My gaze focused on the beach front as I took it all in. I enjoyed the unique iconic Rio landscape, people walking along the beach and surfers hoping to get that perfect wave. I definitely felt like I was in Brazil.

Coconuts are ubiquitous in Rio! Picked these up from the local supermarket chain.
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Touring the Amazon Theater in Manaus

Teatro Amazonas (Amazon Theater) is first on the list of “things to do in Manaus”. I was completely taken aback that an opera house would be in the middle of the Amazon Rainforest, yet the opera lover in me was intrigued. So intrigued in fact, that I booked a hotel (Casa dos Frades) right across the street from unmistakeable pink building.

After a wonderful weekend exploring the Iguazu Falls, my girlfriend Chrissy and I arrived in Manaus at 2am early Monday morning. But, we had to wait til Tuesday to visit the Amazon Theater as they are closed on Mondays. We paid 40 Brazilian Real for two adult tickets that included a tour in your choice of Portuguese (by far the largest group of people), Spanish (a handful of people) or English (only the two of us). Little did I know that I was about to learn about an incredible array of topics, from historical events to the Lego company to rubber bricks, Pavarotti, the first Black governor of Amazonas and so much more.

View of the Amazon Theater from the rooftop of the Casa dos Frades Hotel
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Crossing Iguazu Falls Off My Bucket List

Our Brazilian driver handed over our passports and rolled down the backseat window. The border agent looked at Chrissy and me and then back at her computer. We smiled and waited patiently, hoping we had filled out the immigration paperwork correctly the night before. Without expression she handed our documents back to the driver. She turned to us, smiled and said, “Welcome to Argentina”. We thanked her, returning her smile and continued on our way.

I think I first became aware of Iguazu Falls when I was living in Thailand. I had seen pictures from fellow lesbian travellers, the Globetrotter Girls, and I quite quickly added this natural wonder to my ever-growing travel bucket list. But, living on the other side of the world at the time meant that visiting the border of Argentina and Brazil was a relatively distant dream.

Moving back to North America brought me that much closer to my recently added destination south of the equator. After five wonderful days in iconic Rio de Janeiro, I was very excited about flying into the small city of Foz do Iguaçu in the Pananá state of Brazil. As the name suggests, it is the closest town to the Brazil side of the famous falls (about 30 minutes Uber ride or about 45 minutes via the 120 bus.)

Garganta del Diablo in Parque de Iguazú, Argentina
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Learning About the Maya in Northern Yucatán

“Malu-KEEN”, I said to the Maya guard at Uxmal. He repeated the “good morning” greeting in Yucatec with a smile. I had learned that 30% of people living in the Mayab (known today by many as the Yucatán Peninsula) speak one of 32 Maya languages, all derived from Yucatec. With such a high percentage, I was behoved to learn a few local phrases and this effort was quite well-received.

My favorite aspect of traveling around the northern part of the Yucatán was learning about the Maya. From trying new foods, reading about the history and exploring the Mayab, I left Mexico with an entirely new appreciation for, and understanding of, the area.

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Experiencing Robert Frost in Vermont

I have always been drawn to Robert Frost’s most popular poem, Road Not Taken. The idea of living some sort of “alternate”, more adventurous life strongly appealed to me. In my opinion, this poem highlights the value that American culture places on uniqueness, an aspect of our culture that I like very much.

I was encouraged to write poetry in my youth and, like Frost, was often drawn to the woods for inspiration. Deciduous forests have always filled my soul in a way that no other can. Perhaps Frost felt the same way.

I was elated to discover there was a place that, not only displayed Robert Frost’s poetry, but that a trail had also been created connecting his poems to the nature he wrote about. I could think of no better way to experience Frost, nor to begin my week in Vermont.

Having just landed at the Burlington airport only an hour prior, I pulled my rental car into the parking lot off of Route 125 in Ripton, Vermont. My heart raced when I saw the sign “Robert Frost Trail“, confirming I was indeed in the right place (GPS hadn’t worked so well in that area).

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Vegan Fine-Dining in London – The Gautier Experience

I rang the doorbell not knowing what to expect. Little did I know then that I would be experiencing the gastronomical event of my life. I had entered a world of Michelin-Star Chef Alexis Gauthier, where the idea of fast food simply doesn’t exist. The food inside this unassuming townhouse in London’s Soho district was not simply cooked, assembled or prepared; instead, I was sitting down to a meal whose every dish had been carefully crafted like a piece of art. The patrons were few, the decor minimal and the waitstaff was not only familiar with the ingredients of each dish, they also knew the process in which each delicacy, which reached my little table, was created.

Gauthier Soho is located at 21 Romilly Street in London, England
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